Complete Leopard Gecko Care Guide

Your guide to keeping one of the world's most popular pet reptiles

Why Leopard Geckos Make Perfect First Reptiles

Leopard geckos are often called the perfect beginner reptile, and for good reason. These small, docile lizards are hardy, easy to handle, and relatively simple to care for. Unlike many other geckos, leopard geckos don't need elaborate climbing setups or extremely high humidity. With proper care, your leopard gecko can live 15-20 years and become a friendly, low-maintenance companion.

This guide covers everything you need to know to give your leopard gecko a healthy, happy life.

Getting Started: What You'll Need

Before bringing your leopard gecko home, set up their habitat completely. You'll need a 20-gallon tank minimum (though 30-40 gallons is better), an under-tank heat mat or overhead heating, a thermostat to regulate temperature, a digital thermometer with probe, three hiding spots (warm side, cool side, and moist hide), substrate like paper towels or tile, shallow water and food dishes, and calcium powder for dusting insects. Leopard geckos stay relatively small at 7-10 inches long, making them perfect for those without space for large enclosures.

Setting Up the Perfect Home

Tank Size and Layout

A 20-gallon long tank works for adult leopard geckos, though bigger is always better. A 30 or 40-gallon tank gives your gecko more room to explore and makes it easier to create proper temperature zones. Avoid tall tanks since leopard geckos are ground-dwellers who rarely climb.

Your tank needs distinct temperature zones. The warm side should have a hide where your gecko can retreat while staying warm. The cool side needs its own hide for when your gecko wants to lower their body temperature. You'll also need a moist hide (a hide with damp sphagnum moss inside) placed on the warm side to help with shedding.

Heating: The Foundation of Leopard Gecko Care

Leopard geckos are native to rocky, desert regions where they absorb heat from sun-warmed rocks and sand. You can replicate this with either under-tank heating or overhead heating, though many keepers use both.

Under-tank heat mats work well for leopard geckos. Place the heat mat under one-third to one-half of the tank to create your warm zone. The mat should heat the surface to 88-92°F. Here's the critical part: always use a thermostat with heat mats. Without a thermostat, mats can overheat and burn your gecko or even cause fires. A thermostat regulates the temperature automatically, keeping your gecko safe.

Overhead heating using a ceramic heat emitter or low-wattage halogen bulb also works well. Some keepers prefer this method because it creates a more natural heat gradient and warms the air, not just the ground. If you use overhead heating, place it on one side of the tank to create your temperature gradient. Aim for a basking surface temperature of 88-92°F directly under the heat source.

The cool side of your tank should stay between 70-75°F. This temperature difference is essential. Leopard geckos regulate their body temperature by moving between zones, so both areas must be available at all times. At night, temperatures can safely drop to 65-75°F. Most homes stay in this range naturally, so you may not need nighttime heating unless your house gets very cold.

Lighting Considerations

Here's where leopard geckos differ from bearded dragons: they don't absolutely require UVB lighting to survive. Leopard geckos are crepuscular (active at dawn and dusk) and can synthesize vitamin D3 through their diet when you supplement with D3-containing calcium powder.

However, recent research suggests that low-level UVB lighting may improve their overall health, coloration, and activity levels. If you choose to provide UVB, use a low-output bulb like a 5% UVB tube mounted inside the tank. Keep a 12-hour day/night cycle to maintain their natural rhythms.

Whether or not you use UVB, provide a regular day/night cycle. This can be as simple as keeping your gecko in a room with natural light, or using a low-wattage LED for 12 hours daily. Avoid bright lights directly over the tank, as these can stress your gecko.

Substrate Choices

Substrate choice matters for leopard geckos because they hunt insects on the ground and can accidentally ingest substrate while feeding. Paper towels are the safest, cheapest option and make it easy to spot-clean waste. They're perfect for quarantine, young geckos, or any gecko with health issues.

Tile is an excellent long-term substrate. It holds heat well, naturally files down your gecko's nails, and looks attractive. Slate, ceramic, or even peel-and-stick vinyl tiles all work. Cut the tiles to fit your tank, leaving a small gap at the edges for easy removal during cleaning.

Reptile carpet can work but requires frequent washing to prevent bacterial buildup. Avoid sand, crushed walnut shells, or any loose substrate. These can cause impaction if eaten, leading to serious digestive blockages. Even "digestible" substrates marketed for reptiles pose unnecessary risks.

Daily Care and Feeding

What Leopard Geckos Eat

Leopard geckos are insectivores, meaning they eat only insects. They don't eat vegetables or fruits, which makes feeding relatively straightforward. Adults need food every other day, while juveniles (under one year) should eat daily. Offer 2-3 appropriately sized insects per inch of your gecko's body length.

The size of the insects matters. Never feed insects larger than the space between your gecko's eyes. Oversized prey can cause choking or impaction. Most adult leopard geckos do well with medium-sized insects.

Best Insect Choices

Mealworms are the staple diet for most leopard geckos. They're nutritious, widely available, and easy to store. Keep mealworms in the refrigerator to slow their growth, and "gut-load" them by feeding them nutritious foods 24 hours before offering them to your gecko.

Dubia roaches offer excellent nutrition and are less likely to cause digestive issues than some other feeders. They're also quiet and don't smell, making them pleasant to keep. If roaches bother you, stick with mealworms as your primary feeder.

Crickets work well for variety and encourage natural hunting behavior. However, they're noisy, smelly, and can bite your gecko if left in the tank overnight. Only offer as many crickets as your gecko will eat immediately, and remove any uneaten ones after 15-20 minutes.

Hornworms, silkworms, and black soldier fly larvae make excellent treats. These are high in moisture and nutrients. Offer them once or twice a week for variety.

Never feed wild-caught insects, as they may carry parasites or pesticides. Avoid mealworm beetles (the adult form of mealworms), as their hard shells can cause impaction.

Supplements

Dust all insects with calcium powder before feeding. This is essential for preventing metabolic bone disease. Use calcium powder with D3 for every feeding if you're not providing UVB lighting. If you are using UVB, alternate between calcium with D3 and calcium without D3.

Add a multivitamin powder once per week. This ensures your gecko gets trace minerals and vitamins that might be missing from their insect diet. Simply dust the insects, drop them in a feeding dish, and watch your gecko hunt.

Health and Behavior

Signs of a Healthy Leopard Gecko

A healthy leopard gecko is alert with bright, clear eyes. They should have a plump tail (this is where they store fat reserves), smooth skin that sheds in one complete piece, and a good appetite. Healthy geckos are active during evening hours and hide during the day. They should have regular bowel movements, typically after every other feeding.

Common Health Issues

Metabolic bone disease can occur in leopard geckos who don't receive adequate calcium supplementation. Watch for tremors, soft or curved bones, difficulty walking, or a rubbery jaw. This condition is entirely preventable with proper supplementation. If you notice these signs, see a veterinarian immediately and review your supplementation schedule.

Impaction happens when geckos ingest substrate or eat prey that's too large. Signs include no bowel movements for more than a week, decreased appetite, and lethargy. A warm soak in shallow water sometimes helps mild cases, but serious impaction requires veterinary care. Prevention is simple: use safe substrate and feed appropriately sized insects.

Retained shed occurs when humidity is too low or your gecko isn't healthy. Stuck shed around toes can cut off circulation, potentially leading to toe loss. The moist hide you set up helps prevent this. If you notice retained shed, increase humidity in the moist hide and consider giving your gecko a 15-minute soak in lukewarm water.

Respiratory infections are less common in leopard geckos than in tropical species, but they can occur if temperatures are too low. Watch for open-mouth breathing, wheezing, or mucus around the nose or mouth. These symptoms require a veterinarian visit. Maintain proper temperatures to prevent respiratory issues.

When to See a Veterinarian

Contact a reptile veterinarian if your gecko refuses food for more than two weeks (leopard geckos can go a while without eating, but extended fasting suggests a problem). Other concerning signs include weight loss, no bowel movements for more than two weeks, visible lumps or swelling, difficulty breathing, or any injury. Finding a reptile vet before you need one is wise. Regular exotic animal vets may not have experience with reptiles, so locate a qualified herpetological veterinarian in your area.

Handling and Bonding

Building Trust

Leopard geckos are generally calm and tolerate handling well, but new geckos need time to settle in. Wait at least a week before attempting to handle your new gecko. This adjustment period reduces stress and helps your gecko understand they're safe in their new environment.

When you start handling, move slowly and let your gecko see your hand approaching. Scoop them up gently from below rather than grabbing from above. Predators attack from above in nature, so overhead movements can frighten your gecko. Support their body with both hands and let them walk from hand to hand.

Start with short 5-10 minute handling sessions. Gradually increase the time as your gecko becomes comfortable. Some leopard geckos become quite tame and even seem to enjoy interaction, while others prefer to be left alone. Respect your gecko's personality.

Safe Handling Tips

Never grab your gecko by the tail. Like many lizards, leopard geckos can drop their tails when threatened. While the tail will grow back, it never looks quite the same and uses valuable fat reserves. Handle your gecko over a soft surface in case they jump. Wash your hands before and after handling to protect both you and your pet.

Watch for stress signals. If your gecko waves their tail slowly back and forth, makes vocalizations (squeaking or chirping), or tries to run away repeatedly, they're stressed. Return them to their tank and try again another day.

Cleaning and Maintenance

Daily care is minimal for leopard geckos. Spot-clean any waste you notice. Check the water dish and refill with fresh water. Many leopard geckos defecate in the same spot, making daily cleaning quick and easy. Take a moment to observe your gecko's behavior and ensure everything looks normal.

Weekly tasks include thoroughly cleaning and disinfecting the water dish and food dish. Check that your heating equipment is working correctly. Mist the moist hide to keep the sphagnum moss damp. If you're using paper towels, replace them weekly or whenever they get soiled.

Monthly deep cleaning involves removing your gecko to a secure container, then taking out all decorations and hides. Clean the tank with reptile-safe disinfectant or a diluted bleach solution (rinse thoroughly). Wash and disinfect all decorations. Replace the substrate if needed. Check all equipment including thermostats, heat mats, and thermometers to ensure everything functions properly.

Common Beginner Mistakes to Avoid

Many new keepers skip the thermostat when using heat mats. This is dangerous and can seriously injure your gecko. Always use a thermostat with any heating equipment. Another common mistake is inadequate temperature monitoring. Invest in quality digital thermometers with probes rather than relying on stick-on thermometers, which are notoriously inaccurate.

Some keepers use loose substrates like sand because they look natural. While attractive, these substrates pose impaction risks that aren't worth taking. Stick with safe options like tile or paper towels. Diet variety also trips up beginners. Don't feed just one type of insect. Rotate between mealworms, dubia roaches, and other feeders to ensure complete nutrition.

Finally, handling too much too soon stresses new geckos. Give your gecko time to acclimate before you start regular handling sessions. Patience in the beginning leads to a calmer, friendlier gecko long-term.

Creating a Routine

Leopard geckos thrive on predictable routines. Feed your gecko at roughly the same time each evening. Check temperatures daily, preferably at the same time. Turn lights on and off at consistent times to maintain a regular day/night cycle. These habits take just a few minutes but help your gecko feel secure and reduce stress.

Weekly tasks like cleaning the water dish and checking equipment should also happen on a consistent schedule. This regularity makes care easier for you and better for your gecko. You'll quickly notice any changes in behavior or health when you interact with your gecko on a predictable schedule.

Conclusion

Leopard geckos make wonderful pets for both beginners and experienced keepers. Their straightforward care requirements, docile temperament, and fascinating behaviors make them enjoyable to keep. Focus on providing proper heating with thermostat control, appropriate supplementation, and a stress-free environment. With these basics in place, your leopard gecko will thrive for many years.

Remember that each gecko has its own personality. Some become incredibly tame and interactive, while others remain shy observers. Both are perfectly normal. Pay attention to your individual gecko's preferences and adjust your interactions accordingly. The relationship you build with your leopard gecko, whether hands-on or observational, is part of what makes reptile keeping so rewarding.

 

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