Diagram of Bearded Dragon receiving infrared heat from a deep heat projector

How to Properly Heat a Reptile Enclosure

Reptiles need heat to stay healthy and active, but not all heat sources are the same. Heat is a form of energy known as infrared radiation, which is invisible to humans and most reptiles. There are three main types of infrared:

  • IR-A (Near Infrared):
    This is the strongest and most penetrating type. It can reach deep into tissues, delivering energy effectively. It’s commonly used in medical therapies and is abundant in natural sunlight.

  • IR-B (Mid Infrared):
    Not as strong as IR-A, but still beneficial. It provides decent warmth and is also found in sunlight.

  • IR-C (Far Infrared):
    This type provides surface-level warmth only. It doesn't penetrate the skin and is less efficient. It’s usually emitted by warm surfaces like rocks or pavement that have absorbed heat from the sun.

In the wild, reptiles get most of their heat from the sun above, not from the ground below. So, when heating a reptile enclosure, the goal is to mimic natural sunlight as closely as possible.

Heat Lamps VS Deep Heat Projectors VS Ceramic Heat Emitters

Heat lamps are the most natural and effective way to warm your reptile. They simulate the sun by warming both the air and the surfaces below. Unlike heat mats, which warm from below and encourage unnatural behavior, heat lamps promote healthy, natural basking habits.

Types of Heat Lamps:

  • Halogen and incandescent bulbs: Emit mostly IR-A and IR-B, making them excellent for basking.

  • Deep Heat Projectors : Produce mainly IR-A and IR-B, and through convection, IR-C is produced.

  • Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHEs): Emit mostly IR-C, offering shallow heat.

Halogen flood bulbs are a top choice because they closely replicate sunlight. A popular and reliable option is the 75W Arcadia GoldenSun Basking Halogen bulb.

Setup Tips for Halogen and/or Basking Bulbs:

  • Consider using two bulbs for even heat coverage—great for circulation and full-body basking.

  • Mount bulbs in ceramic-socket domes (e.g., Arcadia Clamp Lamp Chrome or Arcadia Clamp Lamp Graphite).

  • Use a proportional thermostat or rheostat to adjust temperatures easily. Consider using a Herpstat if you have more than one element that needs regulating.

  • Position the heat lamps directly above a branch or basking platform, ideally under the UVB lamp. This setup ensures that your reptile will receive warmth from above and below, as the branch absorbs heat and provides “belly warmth.”

⚠️ Important Safety Tip: Always mount heat lamps outside the enclosure. Even with a bulb guard, young reptiles may find a way inside and risk serious burns or death.

Setup Tips for Deep Heat and/or Ceramic Heat Emitters:

Heat projectors, such as the Arcadia 50W Deep Heat Projector, offer another way to raise enclosure temps. While they don’t produce light and aren’t ideal for basking heat, they’re great for increasing ambient temperatures without drying out the enclosure like ceramic heat emitters often do. As for the ceramic heat emitter, make sure that you have a basking rock or other to absorb the heat to be released back into the enclosure.

Using Deep Heat Projectors or Ceramic Heat Emitters:

  • Start with the lowest wattage and mount in a dome lamp with ceramic fitting.

  • Place it near the middle or cool end of the enclosure.

  • Use a proportional thermostat or rheostat to regulate heat to your reptiles comfort levels.

  • These can be used at night as well if you need to maintain a warmer nighttime temperature.

⚠️ Avoid Non-Proportional Thermostats: These cheaper thermostats are not suitable for heat projectors or light-producing bulbs. They can reduce the lifespan of your equipment and provide less stable temperatures.

⚠️ Safety Reminder: Like heat lamps, never install heat projectors inside the enclosure. Even with a guard, reptiles can still get too close and risk injury.