Complete Tegu Care Guide

Your guide to keeping one of the most intelligent pet lizards

Why Tegus Are Extraordinary Pets

Tegus are among the most intelligent and interactive reptiles you can keep. These large, powerful lizards from South America display dog-like behaviors, recognize their owners, and can even be trained to respond to their names. Argentine black and white tegus are the most commonly kept species, known for their striking black and white banding and generally calm temperament. Tegus are not beginner reptiles—they require substantial space, significant financial investment, and dedicated care. However, for experienced keepers ready for the challenge, tegus offer an unparalleled reptile keeping experience. With proper care, your tegu can live 15-20 years, making them a serious long-term commitment.

This guide covers everything you need to know to keep your tegu healthy and thriving.

Getting Started: What You'll Need

Before bringing your tegu home, understand the enormous space commitment. Adult tegus reach 3-4 feet in length and are powerfully built, muscular lizards. You'll need a custom-built enclosure at least 8x4x4 feet (or a dedicated reptile room), extremely powerful heating equipment including basking bulbs and possibly radiant heat panels, a reliable thermostat system, high-output UVB lighting covering most of the enclosure, multiple large hiding spots, deep substrate for digging (at least 12-18 inches), large water dishes for soaking, and significant quantities of varied food. The initial setup cost for tegus is among the highest for any commonly kept reptile, often exceeding several thousand dollars for proper housing alone.

Setting Up the Perfect Home

Enclosure Size and Construction

Adult tegus need absolutely massive enclosures. An 8x4x4 foot enclosure is the minimum acceptable size, though 10x5x5 feet or larger is preferable. Some keepers dedicate entire rooms to their tegus, which provides ideal space. Store-bought enclosures large enough for adult tegus don't exist, so you'll need to build custom housing or convert furniture like large entertainment centers.

Young tegus can start in smaller enclosures like 75-gallon tanks or 4x2x2 foot enclosures, but they grow extremely quickly. Many keepers find it more economical to build the adult-sized enclosure from the beginning rather than upgrading multiple times.

The enclosure must be escape-proof. Tegus are intelligent and strong. They'll push, dig, and manipulate any weakness in their housing. Use secure latches on doors, ensure the top is completely covered or too heavy for the tegu to lift, and check that there are no gaps they can squeeze through. Tegus can flatten their bodies surprisingly thin and will escape through openings that seem impossibly small.

Custom enclosures are typically built using melamine, plywood sealed with polyurethane, or PVC panels. These materials hold heat well and are easy to clean. Some keepers use horse troughs, stock tanks, or build outdoor enclosures in warm climates. Whatever housing you choose, it must provide adequate space, security, and temperature control.

The enclosure needs excellent ventilation despite the large size. Stagnant air promotes respiratory infections. Many custom builds include ventilation panels on opposite ends to create airflow while maintaining temperature.

Temperature Requirements

Tegus need substantial heat to thrive. The basking spot should reach 100-110°F, significantly hotter than most other lizards require. This high heat is essential for proper digestion. Without adequate basking temperatures, tegus may refuse food or develop digestive problems.

The ambient temperature on the warm side should be 85-90°F. The cool side needs to stay around 75-80°F. This dramatic temperature gradient allows your tegu to thermoregulate precisely by moving between zones.

At night, temperatures can drop to 70-75°F safely. Tegus tolerate and even benefit from this nighttime temperature drop. Unless your home gets extremely cold, nighttime heating is typically unnecessary.

Creating these high temperatures in large enclosures requires powerful heating equipment. Multiple basking bulbs (high-wattage halogen or mercury vapor bulbs) positioned over the basking area provide intense heat. Radiant heat panels mounted on the ceiling can supplement basking bulbs and help maintain ambient temperatures.

Ceramic heat emitters work for supplemental heating but don't provide light, which tegus benefit from during basking. Many keepers use halogen bulbs during the day for basking heat and visible light, switching to ceramic heat emitters at night if nighttime heating is needed.

Heat cables or heat tape can be installed under portions of the enclosure to provide gentle belly heat, though these should supplement overhead heating rather than replace it. Tegus need to bask above-ground to digest properly.

Always use thermostats with all heating equipment. With the powerful heating elements required for tegus, thermostats are essential safety equipment preventing fires and protecting your tegu from burns. Multiple thermostats controlling different heat sources provide redundancy in case one fails.

Monitor temperatures with multiple digital thermometers placed throughout the enclosure. You need probes at the basking spot, on the warm side ambient area, and on the cool side. Temperature guns (infrared thermometers) are also useful for checking surface temperatures on basking platforms.

Lighting Requirements

Tegus absolutely require high-quality UVB lighting. These are large, active lizards who need strong UVB to metabolize calcium properly. Without adequate UVB, tegus develop severe metabolic bone disease that causes permanent deformities and can be fatal.

Use high-output T5 HO UVB tubes rated 10-12% that span most of the enclosure length. For an 8-foot enclosure, use two 4-foot fixtures or one continuous 8-foot fixture. Mount fixtures inside the enclosure when possible for maximum UVB transmission. If mounting on top of a screen lid, place the basking spot closer to account for UVB loss through the screen.

Position basking areas 12-18 inches below UVB bulbs. This provides strong UVB exposure while preventing overexposure. Tegus should be able to move in and out of high-UVB zones, so ensure some areas have lower UVB exposure as well.

Replace UVB bulbs every 6-12 months regardless of whether they still produce light. UVB output degrades significantly over time. Mark your calendar when installing new bulbs. Given the expense of lighting such large enclosures, replacement costs are significant but absolutely necessary.

Mercury vapor bulbs provide both heat and UVB in a single bulb. These work well for tegus and simplify setup. However, they still need replacement on schedule as UVB output decreases.

Maintain a 12-14 hour light cycle during active season using timers. Tegus are diurnal and need bright lighting during the day. Natural visible light from windows supplements artificial lighting and provides environmental enrichment.

During winter months, tegus may enter brumation (reptile hibernation). Light cycles can be shortened during this period. We'll discuss brumation in detail later in this guide.

Humidity and Substrate

Tegus need moderate humidity levels around 60-80%. They come from tropical and subtropical regions with seasonal variation in humidity. Monitor humidity with digital hygrometers placed in different areas of the enclosure.

Deep substrate provides humidity, enables natural digging behavior, and maintains temperature gradients. Tegus are enthusiastic diggers who will excavate complex burrow systems when given adequate substrate depth. Provide at least 12-18 inches of substrate, more if possible.

The best substrate options include a mixture of cypress mulch, coconut fiber, and topsoil. This combination holds moisture well, enables digging, and is relatively safe if accidentally ingested. Some keepers add play sand to the mixture to improve drainage and make digging easier.

Sphagnum moss mixed into substrate or placed in humid hides helps maintain moisture. Mist the enclosure lightly once or twice daily to maintain humidity, but don't saturate the substrate. The substrate should be moist several inches down but not wet or muddy on the surface.

Good drainage is essential. Water must be able to drain through substrate rather than pooling at the bottom, which creates bacterial problems. Some keepers install false bottoms with drainage layers under the substrate.

Avoid substrates that are dusty or contain small particles that could cause impaction. While tegus are robust lizards, repeated ingestion of inappropriate substrate during feeding can cause problems. Many keepers feed on platforms or plates to minimize substrate ingestion.

Enrichment and Furnishings

Tegus are intelligent animals who need environmental enrichment. A bare enclosure with just substrate and a hide is inadequate. Provide a variety of features that encourage natural behaviors.

Large, sturdy hides are essential. Tegus need secure hiding spots where they can retreat and feel safe. Commercial hides are often too small for adult tegus, so you'll likely need to build custom hides using wood, PVC pipe sections, or inverted plastic storage containers with entrance holes cut out.

Basking platforms should be large and stable. Tegus will climb on rocks, logs, and platforms to bask. Ensure everything is secured and can't shift or collapse under your tegu's weight. Adult tegus are powerful and heavy.

Digging boxes or areas with extra-deep substrate satisfy burrowing instincts. Some keepers create specific digging zones with mixed substrate optimized for tunneling.

Branches and ramps provide climbing opportunities. While tegus are primarily terrestrial, they'll climb when given the chance. Secure all climbing structures firmly.

Water dishes must be large enough for your tegu to soak completely. Tegus love water and will soak regularly, especially before shedding. Use heavy dishes that can't be tipped easily. Rubber livestock tubs or cement mixing tubs work well for adult tegus.

Rotate decorations and rearrange the enclosure periodically to provide novelty and mental stimulation. Tegus are curious and benefit from environmental changes that challenge them to explore and adapt.

Daily Care and Feeding

What Tegus Eat

Tegus are omnivores with dietary needs that change as they mature. Juveniles need high protein (about 80-90% animal matter, 10-20% plant matter). Adults shift toward more balanced diets (about 60% animal matter, 40% plant matter). Very mature adults may eat even more vegetables.

Feed juveniles daily. Subadults eat every other day. Adults typically eat every other day or every third day. Tegus are food-motivated and will often beg for food even when full. Portion control is essential to prevent obesity, which is common in captive tegus.

The dietary variety for tegus is extensive. They can eat a wider range of foods than most reptiles, making feeding interesting but also requiring careful planning to ensure balanced nutrition.

Best Food Choices

For protein, offer whole prey items as the foundation. Mice, rats, chicks, and quail provide complete nutrition including bones, organs, and muscle. Whole prey should form the majority of protein intake. Young tegus eat fuzzy mice or rat pups. Adults can eat large rats or multiple prey items.

Ground turkey is an excellent supplemental protein. Mix it with finely chopped vegetables and calcium powder. Raw or cooked both work. Many keepers prepare large batches, portion them, and freeze them for convenience.

Eggs are nutritious and most tegus love them. Offer hard-boiled or scrambled eggs once or twice weekly. Whole raw eggs with shell provide calcium.

High-quality canned dog or cat food can supplement the diet occasionally. Choose varieties with whole meat as the primary ingredient. Limit to once weekly as these foods aren't nutritionally complete for tegus.

Fish like salmon, tilapia, or whole smelt provide variety. Offer once or twice weekly. Avoid fish as the primary protein source as an all-fish diet lacks necessary nutrients.

Insects like dubia roaches, superworms, and hornworms can be offered, especially to juveniles. However, insects alone don't provide complete nutrition for tegus. They should supplement whole prey, not replace it.

For fruits and vegetables, offer dark leafy greens like collard greens, mustard greens, and turnip greens. These provide excellent nutrition and should be daily foods for adults. Squash, bell peppers, green beans, and berries add variety. Tropical fruits like mango, papaya, and melon make good treats.

Avoid spinach and kale, which contain oxalates that interfere with calcium absorption. Don't feed avocado (toxic), rhubarb (toxic), or processed human foods. While tegus will eat almost anything offered, not everything is appropriate.

Supplements

Dust whole prey or food with calcium powder (without D3 if using UVB) at most feedings. Use calcium with D3 if not providing UVB, though UVB is strongly recommended for tegus. Add a reptile multivitamin 1-2 times weekly.

Mix supplements into ground meat or scrambled eggs, or dust whole prey before offering. Don't over-supplement, which can cause vitamin toxicity. Light, consistent supplementation is better than heavy, irregular supplementation.

Feeding Strategy

Many keepers feed tegus outside their enclosure in feeding tubs to prevent substrate ingestion and reduce aggression around the enclosure. This also creates a clear association between the feeding tub and food, reducing the chance your tegu will bite you when you reach into their enclosure for maintenance.

Other keepers feed on platforms or plates inside the enclosure. Both methods work. Choose what works best for your setup and your tegu's temperament.

Remove uneaten food within 2-3 hours. Tegus are messy eaters who scatter food. Regular cleanup prevents bacterial growth and pest problems.

Monitor your tegu's body condition carefully. Tegus should have visible muscle tone with a gentle taper toward the tail. If the body and tail are the same width, or if the tail appears wider than the body, your tegu is overweight. Adjust portions accordingly.

Brumation

Understanding Brumation

Brumation is a period of dormancy similar to hibernation that many tegus undergo in winter. In nature, tegus brumate during cooler months when food is scarce. Captive tegus may also brumate even when temperatures and food remain constant.

Brumation typically lasts 2-5 months, usually occurring between November and March. Some tegus brumate every year, others skip years, and some never brumate at all. Brumation is natural and healthy for tegus, though not required for captive individuals.

Signs of Brumation

As winter approaches, your tegu may become less active, eat less frequently, and spend more time hiding or sleeping. They may refuse food entirely and stop basking. These behaviors indicate brumation is beginning.

Don't force food on a tegu preparing to brumate. Allow them to empty their digestive system naturally. Many tegus will defecate one final time before settling in for brumation.

Managing Brumation

Some keepers allow natural brumation in the enclosure. Gradually reduce light hours to 8-10 hours daily and lower temperatures slightly (basking spot 80-85°F instead of 100-110°F). The tegu will dig into substrate and remain mostly inactive.

Check on your brumating tegu weekly. Ensure they're breathing normally and don't appear dehydrated. Offer water during checks, though many brumating tegus won't drink. If the tegu emerges and actively searches for food, offer a small meal.

Other keepers prevent brumation by maintaining full lighting, temperatures, and feeding schedules year-round. This works but may not be natural for all tegus. Some individuals become stressed if prevented from brumating.

Young tegus (under one year) generally shouldn't brumate. Maintain normal care for juveniles through their first winter to ensure continued growth.

After 2-5 months, your tegu will naturally emerge from brumation. Gradually increase temperatures and light hours back to normal. Offer small meals initially, increasing portion size as appetite returns. Most tegus are voracious after brumation and regain any lost weight quickly.

Health and Behavior

Signs of a Healthy Tegu

A healthy tegu is alert and active during the day. They should explore their enclosure, bask regularly, and show strong interest in food. Eyes should be clear and bright. The body should be well-muscled with visible definition. Healthy tegus shed regularly in large pieces. They should have regular bowel movements and move with good coordination and strength.

Common Health Issues

Metabolic bone disease results from inadequate UVB lighting or calcium supplementation. Early signs include tremors, soft jaw, reduced activity, and difficulty walking. Advanced cases show severe deformities, curved spine, and swollen limbs. This is devastating in large lizards like tegus and entirely preventable with proper UVB and calcium. Treatment requires correcting husbandry and often veterinary intervention.

Respiratory infections develop when temperatures are too low or humidity is excessively high with poor ventilation. Watch for open-mouth breathing, wheezing, mucus around the nose or mouth, or decreased appetite. Respiratory infections require antibiotic treatment from a veterinarian. They're serious and require immediate attention.

Obesity is extremely common in captive tegus. These lizards are enthusiastic eaters with seemingly bottomless appetites. Overweight tegus develop fatty liver disease, heart problems, joint stress, and shortened lifespans. Monitor body condition carefully and resist the temptation to overfeed even when your tegu begs.

Parasites are common in tegus, especially wild-caught individuals. Internal parasites cause weight loss despite good appetite, abnormal stools, or lethargy. Annual fecal examinations with a reptile veterinarian should be routine for tegus. External parasites like ticks occasionally appear on imported tegus.

Injuries can occur from aggressive behavior, escape attempts, or accidents. Tegus are powerful and can injure themselves on sharp enclosure features. Any wounds should be evaluated by a veterinarian as infections develop quickly in reptiles.

Tail loss can occur if tegus are grabbed by the tail or catch their tail in doors or furnishings. Unlike some lizards, tegu tails don't regenerate fully. Handle your tegu properly and ensure their enclosure is safe.

When to See a Veterinarian

Contact a reptile veterinarian if your tegu refuses food for more than two weeks (outside of brumation), shows respiratory symptoms, displays signs of metabolic bone disease, has visible injuries or lumps, or shows unusual lethargy or weakness. Weight loss, abnormal stools, or difficulty moving all warrant professional attention. Finding a qualified reptile veterinarian experienced with large lizards before you need one is essential.

Handling and Interaction

Building Trust

Tegus have the potential to become incredibly tame, but this requires patient, consistent work. New tegus need at least one week to settle in before handling begins. Ensure your tegu has eaten several meals and appears comfortable in their enclosure before starting handling sessions.

Young tegus are often defensive, whipping their tails, hissing, or even attempting to bite. This is normal defensive behavior. With regular, gentle handling, most tegus calm down significantly within weeks to months.

Start handling sessions short, just 5-10 minutes every other day. Approach confidently but calmly. Tegus can sense hesitation and may react more defensively to nervous handlers. Scoop your tegu from below, supporting their entire body including the powerful tail.

As your tegu becomes more comfortable, gradually increase handling duration and frequency. Many tegus begin to recognize their keepers and calm down significantly when they understand handling doesn't hurt them.

Food-motivated training works excellently with tegus. Offer treats during or after handling to create positive associations. Many tegus learn to associate their keeper with food and become eager to interact.

Understanding Tegu Behavior

Tegus display a range of behaviors that communicate their mood. A calm, comfortable tegu will move slowly, allow handling without resistance, and may even appear to seek interaction.

Defensive tegus display several warning signs. Tail whipping (swinging the heavy tail like a weapon) indicates distress. Hissing or huffing shows discomfort. An open mouth or puffed-up body posture signals readiness to bite. If your tegu displays these behaviors, back off and try again later.

Some tegus go through a seasonal aggression phase, particularly during breeding season (spring/summer). Males especially may become territorial and defensive during this period. Respect this natural behavior and reduce handling during aggressive phases.

Tegus can learn to recognize their names and respond to training. Some keepers successfully train tegus to come when called, go into their enclosure on command, or perform simple behaviors for food rewards. This intelligence makes tegus fascinating to work with.

Safe Handling Tips

Always support a tegu's entire body when handling. Use both arms to cradle them against your body. Never pick up a tegu by the tail, which can cause injury.

Tegus have powerful jaws and can deliver serious bites. While tame tegus rarely bite, accidents happen. Wear gloves when handling defensive tegus or during initial taming. Never pull away from a biting tegu, which can worsen injuries. Stay calm and wait for them to release.

Tegu claws are sharp and strong. They can scratch when trying to climb or escape. Wear long sleeves when handling defensive individuals. Regular nail trimming helps reduce scratching.

Wash hands thoroughly before and after handling. Before handling removes food scents that might trigger feeding responses. After handling protects you from bacteria.

Never handle tegus around other pets, especially dogs and cats. Even the calmest tegu may react defensively to unfamiliar animals, and interactions can escalate dangerously quickly.

Cleaning and Maintenance

Daily maintenance includes spot-cleaning feces and removing any uneaten food. Tegus produce substantial waste, so daily cleaning is essential. Check and refill water dishes. Monitor temperatures throughout the enclosure to ensure heating equipment functions properly.

Weekly tasks include thoroughly cleaning and disinfecting water dishes. Tegus often defecate in water bowls, requiring frequent cleaning. Spot-clean heavily soiled substrate areas and replace substrate in those spots.

Monthly deep cleaning involves removing your tegu to a secure area, then removing soiled substrate. Replace or turn over substrate as needed. Clean enclosure walls and floor with reptile-safe disinfectant. Wash and disinfect all hides, dishes, and decorations. Check all equipment including thermostats, heating elements, and UVB bulbs.

Given the large enclosure size, deep cleaning is labor-intensive. Many keepers maintain bioactive setups with cleanup crews (isopods and springtails) that reduce maintenance requirements. However, bioactive setups require significant research and setup.

Common Beginner Mistakes to Avoid

The biggest mistake is underestimating the space, expense, and commitment tegus require. Many people buy baby tegus without understanding they'll grow into 4-foot lizards needing room-sized enclosures and eating substantial amounts of expensive food. Research thoroughly and ensure you're ready for a tegu before purchasing one.

Inadequate enclosure size is tragically common. Tegus kept in too-small enclosures become stressed, aggressive, and develop health problems. Build or purchase adult-sized housing before bringing a tegu home.

Insufficient heating causes numerous problems. The large enclosures tegus need require powerful, expensive heating equipment. Skimping on heating to save money results in a tegu that won't thrive.

Poor UVB lighting causes metabolic bone disease. Use high-output UVB and replace bulbs on schedule. This isn't optional for tegus.

Overfeeding is extremely common. Tegus beg for food constantly regardless of hunger. Obesity shortens lifespans and causes serious health problems. Feed appropriate portions based on body condition, not on your tegu's enthusiasm.

Handling aggressive or defensive tegus without proper precautions leads to bites. Respect your tegu's warnings and back off when they display defensive behaviors. Forcing interaction damages trust and can result in injury.

Finally, acquiring wild-caught tegus creates unnecessary problems. Wild-caught tegus often carry parasites, are heavily stressed, and may never truly tame. Captive-bred tegus are healthier, calmer, and make far better pets.

Creating a Routine

Tegus thrive on consistent routines. Maintain the same light cycle daily using timers. Feed on regular days at similar times. This predictability reduces stress and helps your tegu anticipate care.

Daily interaction, even just talking to your tegu while performing maintenance, builds familiarity. Many tegus learn to recognize their keepers' voices and routines.

Regular handling sessions on consistent days help maintain tameness. However, respect your tegu's signals. If they're defensive on a particular day, skip handling and try again later.

Conclusion

Tegus are extraordinary reptiles offering interactions and intelligence unmatched by most other lizards. They're not pets for everyone—the space requirements, expense, and long-term commitment are substantial. However, for experienced keepers ready for the challenge, tegus provide an incredibly rewarding experience.

Success requires commitment to providing massive enclosures, powerful heating and lighting, varied nutrition, and patient, consistent interaction. These aren't low-maintenance pets. Tegus demand significant daily care and attention.

The relationship you can build with a well-socialized tegu is remarkable. Many keepers describe their tegus more like dogs than reptiles. This personality and intelligence come with needs that must be met. If you provide excellent care and respect your tegu's nature, you'll have a fascinating companion for many years.

Before committing to a tegu, ensure you have the space, resources, and dedication they require. These magnificent lizards deserve homes where they can truly thrive, not merely survive.

 

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